Posts by SBJ01

    I was talking about shortening the shafts of your stock inserts if they are in good shape.

    This would allow them to work in their proper range again.

    The shock inserts "have" been shortened to compensate for the compressing of the coils, they have had extra thread added and then cut down to suit, the springs are contained when the car is jacked up with no play, this is where the shock specialist warned me that their was only 1-2" of travel left in the inserts themselves.

    If your inserts are in good condition, shortening the shafts might lead to the best suspension in terms of comfort.

    Stock reset springs with stock shortened inserts should in theory result in a ride close to stock but with little tolerance for bottoming out.

    If your driving style is slow and careful, this should work well.

    I have spoken to a local shock re-builder and he also suggested this, to cut down the original shock and add some Bilstein inserts but the quote would see me around $2000 for a pair :(

    I think I am just going to have to save up and order a front pair of these which is the cheapest I have been able to find anywhere, all my local prices are MORE than this price for 2 -…7806f1:g:RM4AAOSwBvNToHrO

    I have a feeling that there is just no more insert to compress.

    When the suspension was returned there was a maximum of 1.5"-2" strut insert travel left, then I guess if you add some weight on them from the car and possibly they are maxed out?

    I have no idea what oil is in them as I did not do the work, they were taken to a reputable suspension company that do a lot of this kind of resetting and shortening, from what I am aware they just cut down the insert and added some more thread.

    They did however caution me that there was almost no insert left.

    They are Osrav Topline Shocks

    The springs in them were not stock and were already ~1-2" lower than stock before getting them compressed another 65mm

    The front suspension was already firm but had movement.

    I never used it because its not street legal in Germany. New Zealand is more open in these things?

    As long as the spring is contained and has not been cut in any way is usually ok here, and being an uncommon vehicle they will not even know what is stock and what isn't as it has all been altered cleanly.

    Plus everyone has that one warrant of fitness guy that will slap a sticker on the car regardless ;)

    Coil-overs here need to be certified, that alone is $500 then along with that everything on the car will be gone over and recorded for that cert, this is not a major but usually a deterrent for a lot of vehicles here due to cost and hassle.

    Forget it!

    It`s not as easy as you think and you have to get a lot of parts,to change and rebuild them.

    That will be okay in Italy,in Australia it`not easy to get those parts.

    The cheapest (and best!!) way maybe the expensive way!

    Take a look on the pics of 127-Peter and you will see.

    Hmmm ok,

    I was told by someone on a Facebook page who fitted them into their Mk1 that they merely did some welding to the bottom bracket and they fit right in? (this was translated though so could be incorrect? - this was also the guy who said he would send me photos of exactly what was needed to be done yet never sent me pics)

    I have also seen references from Marcus in this forum who owns the low Beige fiat and he also has suggested to other users to use Golf coil overs as this is what he has done. (they are old threads though so did not want to bump them)

    PS - I am not in Australia - I am in New Zealand

    Well, the other possibility is to bring the original coil springs to a experienced spring builder who can treat them thermically in a proper way and compress them keeping a similar force rate as before.
    My personal experience with that ones are extremely limited, as not street legal in my country (CH).

    This is exactly what I have done already as they are now.

    I took the front suspension out and took them to a specialist and then they reset the springs by resetting/compressing them 65mm and then shortened the shocks to suit.

    Overall the entire front is possibly already 70-90mm shorter than stock.

    The ride at the moment from the front is rough, like a go kart.

    I need to find out about these Golf coil-overs as I will save hundreds of dollars vs getting some made.

    Thanks for the tips Oli,

    I have had a second look due to your response.

    My short driveshaft side already has a modified bracket for the CV boot and a different CV boot which sits on the outside of the mount.

    I have Abarth headers and they sit further out from the stock exhaust so there is a decent amount of clearance between the long driveshaft and exhaust, no issues there.

    Hi all,

    Now I have searched this forum and found a couple of comments regarding this and have searched online and have also asked Facebook page members who may have done this but the level of secrecy around these cars and modifications is like fort knox.

    I have 2 contacts to make me some coilover front suspension, both quotes are going to cost me ~$1600+

    I can import some but even they will cost me ~$1300+ after shipping and take 4-8 weeks to be made and arrive

    Now I have constantly seen comments regarding VW Golf coilovers being modified to suit the Mk1 1 Fiat 127.

    I have messaged guys to ask and they have said they would supply me with photos but never have.

    I have saved measurements on file on my work pc from Mk1 and Mk2 golf suspension bolt holes and spacing etc but still need info from someone who has fitted them to what is actually needed to be done, what version, what needs modifying.

    These can be found for me for around $150-250 per set of 4 (I can sell the rear to compensate/offset my fabrication costs) so much cheaper than the $1600+ extortion from the other 2 contacts.

    Has anyone fitted these earlier Golf coilovers to the front of their Mk1 Fiat 127 and if so WHAT exactly needs to be done to fit them?

    Does anyone have in depth knowledge here and any possible photos?

    Do they ride well?

    Currently I have temporarily modified my stock shocks by shortening them and resetting some Alfa 33 springs by another 65mm and it is quite laughable how rock hard the front is, I could sit on the corner and it won't compress, there is under 50mm of strut insert travel left, I need at least "some" compression and rebound :D compared to the feeling of having solid steel rods in the front as it is now.

    * ^^ These were always going to be a temporary front suspension setup just to get me to my fabricators and until coilovers were made etc but thought they would have been a little bit softer - I currently have to dodge every little bump in the road with them in as if the lower arm is welded to the chassis.

    Just an update on this -

    I drained the "new" gearbox oil I filled it with which was Castrol VMX80, this is what was suggested by some local Fiat guys 128s etc as they said this is what they used in their gearboxes.

    This oil lead to 2nd gear down shifts crunching, effectively stopping me from selecting 2nd on slow downs, and then adjusting the clutch to stop the crunching lead to it slipping.

    I ended up draining it and filled it with 20w-50 mineral engine oil and not only the crunching has stopped completely, the clutch was able to be adjusted back to where it once "was" crunching and barely shifting and now not only shifts smooth but the clutch also holds fine in all gears, I can now put my foot to the floor in 4th gear at low rpm and the clutch will hold.

    * Thanks again for the clarification regarding the clutch size I will need, but may not need one for a while now - well.......untill the flywheel gets swapped out anyway.


    I know for a fact the clutch in it at the moment is 160mm as I only swapped the boxes over recently, I also have a couple of spare second hand 160mms but if the 170mm could have fit it would have been a no brainer to buy it which is why I was querying the compatibility of it.

    I'll look into a 160mm setup for my needs.

    Thanks again

    Original ones?

    Mine had/has none?

    Do the Mk1 127s come with these stock? - is there a part number?

    I have seen some for an A112 but if there are actual ones for the 127 then that would be great.

    Never seen any images of any other 127s with these in there?

    Thanks for the link I'll have a look now

    The engine has a few bolt ons, some high octane leaded fuel and utilising a fitted 5.xx final drive using the original 4 speed mk1 box, and will soon have a lightened flywheel and short shifter on which I plan to be able to be pretty agressive with the shifts and box itself so would prefer an uprated unit.

    I was just not 100% on the difference between the 160mm vs 170mm as numerous sellers state the 170mm is for the 903cc as well?

    The 5 speed is now removed, this was pieced together from a mixture of Panda, possibly Uno as well and 127 gearboxes, it accepted a 180mm setup from memory when the car temporarily had a 965cc panda engine but that was removed due to continuous issues and the reliable 903 was put back in with the stock flywheel and clutch, the 5 speed was direct bolt on except for larger tripoids, no modification to the frame needed, there was a 3cm gap to the chassis

    Not looking for all out speed with this car or an all out racecar but a stop light racer will suffice, which is why I am not worried about motorway speeds/rpm etc and 0-60/100 times is all Ill be fussing over, hence the final drive change and the beginnings of some unsprung weight reduction.


    So 160mm is the only way for me then.

    The cv boot leaked before lowering so I know thats not the cause, I fitted brand new boots when replacing the gearbox and this one has leaked from day 1, it leaks from the small driveshaft hole where the shaft comes out, so the oil seal there is not doing its job, the old boot didn't leak but has been thrown out, I already have a modified mount for the boot fitted on the other side from the modified 5 speed.

    Are the upgraded pressure plates worthwhile? - seen here -…s/62098439/Products/RCI80

    Or can they be found elsewhere as a kit?


    Hi there,

    Just wondering if anyone with a low 127 has any insight as to what bump stops can fit in the small holes above the rear leaf spring?

    See the attached image I think of Marcus's 127, I am guessing these are there to limit upwards travel to hopefully stop the assembly/wheels from bashing up into the chassis etc.

    I bought some Fiat 124 bump stops as they looked almost identical but the plugs were too small for the holes.

    Does anyone else have rear rubbers fitted on theirs?

    Hi all,

    I think my 127 is due for a clutch replacement.

    I had a custom made 5 speed gearbox in it (direct fit box with no adjustment to the chassis needed) but have recently removed it for a very close ratio 4 speed box, the 5 speed was a good touring box but really lacked performance and made the car very sluggish (only finding this out after swapping gearboxes - I have no other 127s here to compare with).

    Just fitting the 4 speed alone has been a day and night difference with acceleration.

    My issue is everything has been good, gear changes good, holds in higher gear under load but this is now the issue...

    The previous owner attempted to fit a DCOE carb and in doing so modified the accelerator cable, failed fitting the carb due to it being too big and reverted back but left the modified cable there in use, now I thought all was fine until I started playing around with the timing etc as I am now running 106 RON leaded fuel, and to my surprise his "mock" accelerator cable setup only opened the carb half way maybe not even to 45 degrees.

    I have now modified this to open 0%-100% and wow what a difference, induction noise is much louder and the car really pulls much harder than before - I must have been cruising around with 15hp before because the difference is quite excessive, in threads on a local forum from the previous owner he was always complaining that the car felt low on power and other cars that he should have been able to overtake used to walk away from him.

    The one issue that has now arised from this additional/regained power is that as soon as it gets to about 4000rpm the clutch will start to let go and it sounds as if the wheels are starting to spin.

    I have adjusted the cable but it is at the point now if I adjust it any more the gears barely change properly and I have to double clutch it, if I then adjust it back the clutch doesn't hold enough.

    There seems to be a small leak from the inner CV boot (the long shaft) - this was a new boot but it seems to be leaking from the driveshaft hole itself where the seal sits on the inner boot, maybe some oil has sprayed up into the flywheel area from this splattering around?

    My question is, I am pretty sure it is the 160mm clutch in there at the moment, I have 2x spare clutches which are used but still ok, although I would prefer to fit a new upgraded version and looking on line there are numerous 170mm versions?

    I am looking to buy a slightly heavier duty pressure plate and clutch as I am going to be giving it some abuse and will be fitting a light weight flywheel and short shifter at the same time.

    Can I use one of these 170mm versions, or is there a 160mm version that has a up-rated pressure plate?

    Yes neither had I but these were marketed as early Fiat 127 trims to fit ALL early Fiat 127s

    The original trim was all damaged and bent during removal and can no longer be used.

    After fitting the black trim I was really disappointed at how it fit, so much so I actually preferred the old worn out original trim over this trim.

    I now see the site that I have bought it off has updated the page for this item with a picture of a Mk3 127 so this could be the issue.

    I'll have to get in touch with "Emanuele" as stated above for some good fitting items.

    Does anyone have any tips to fitting this trim?

    I removed all the retaining screws for the window pillar etc but left the windows in, wound down the big window and opened the triangle one, fitting was tricky but it worked.

    I was unsure if the main window needed removing to be able to remove the triangle one to be able to fit it all without hassle.

    Hi there everyone,

    I ordered BLACK front door window trim off an overseas company to replace my old damaged stainless trim on my Mk1 127.
    Unfortunately the fit is terrible.

    The radius on the front is wrong and the overall length is too short.

    The join where it joins at the back is almost 5cm? ( I had to hammer the corners to make them fit so they are bent ).

    I think the company has sent me something off a newer version YET claimed they are for ALL early MK1 versions?

    I though this was normal "hand made and old" until I have recently seen a few lovely Mk1 127s online where the window trim looks perfect with no gaps, perfect corners and fitting perfectly - the trim I replaced fitted much better.

    I now am hoping to find another trim kit that will fit as if it suits the vehicle instead of making it look cheap and damaged like it is now. - anyone know where a meticulous fitting kit is to be bought with international shipping? - I just want everything to be AND look new and fit perfectly

    I have placed a review of the item on their site BUT as it is their own site the review does not show ( I do not want to cause an issue to the site but still want others to know the items fit like rubbish - if someone can possibly provide some insight here to what trim I may have received that would be great )

    Just to add to this thread for anyone wondering about the tyres rubbing or scraping....

    With the adjustments I have done I have 0 rubbing, 0 scraping from any wheel/tyre

    The only time I can hear any scratching is whilst pulling out of my driveway which is on a 45 degree angle and it comes from the rear abarth exhaust/muffler maybe 1mm of it connects for about 1 second and only on a certain angle.

    I would actually go lower but my driveway may not be too forgiving.

    When I get coilovers the front will be lowered another 15-20mm as the reset front is still a little offset from the rear (0 fingers can fit in the rear and 1-1.5 in the front)

    I have taken a couple of quick photos whilst running out the door to work this morning,

    Here you see the master cylinder under the dash and missing bits in the bay

    * TBH this is the first time I have actually had my head under here to have a proper look and after viewing this image there will be quite a few new parts going in here... **cough** OCD **cough**

    * This IS NOT a common layout for a RHD vehicle, normally LHD-RHD the only difference is everything is mirrored but I guess due to the engine block/headers/battery etc there was no room for the brake setup.

    If anyone has an OMP strut brace they could sell me and ship to Auckland New Zealand, I will take it, I bought one off a UK company but there was an issue with their system or something and it was returned to them.

    I started grinding back the tyre mount in preparation for it but gave up after notification it was no longer coming.