Beiträge von AbarthSwed

  • Improving the car....

    Oliver you are right. I will change the specs to original next time I go back to Sweden again. This time I just had time to fit the dampers and the lenkarms in the back. But cuz the car is just 30 mm lower it still drove pretty good....it handles alot better than before. I cant imagine how it will be after I set the suspention right :)

  • Improving the car....

    ok here is the result....


    I went back to see why I did not have any direct steering when driving. Its not the steering rack cuz when I go left and right with the steering wheel the tires react so fort. So it had to be something else. I went to look at the bushes and i noticed some places were not really tight, especially the movable joints to the steering, so I tighten them. Then I saw that one bush on the querlenker was broken. I exchanged it with a polysport bush from Timms autoteile. But to my dissapointmen It does NOT fit??? I had to cut and modify it and finally I got it in and now the car feels much better. The polysport bush is way to big and the hole trough wich the screw goes is too large. The holes on the car where the querlenker goes are much smaller?


    I still have to set the wheels and stuff but the car really handles great with the OSRAV dampers. The car is very VERY stiff now and feels like a real racing car..

  • Improving the car....

    Grrr! Something is wrong with my spurstange i think cuz I have to turn alot on the steering weel i when I drive. It is actually dangerous cuz the car does not react when I turn a little. Becouse of this I couldn´t test the car today.


    Does anyone know how to fix this problem?

  • Improving the car....

    Today I put in my new "hintere querlenker" and they fitted without a problem. Thank you Hans. I also fitted the Osrav dampers in the back and one in the front. Tomorrow I will finnish with the last damper and then I will make a test drive. I had a problem taking of the dampers cuz I dont have the right tool for the top nut on the damper, but eventually i got the nut off. I also changed one of the rear wheel hubs. I will be back with more info on how the car feels with the new dampers and querlenkers.


    Marco

  • Welche Sportsitze?

    Zitat von centododici

    And "Riffelblech" is ugly too.


    :roll: Im honoured that your first post on this forum is devoted to me but next time, try to keep it with the topic.





    Zitat von helmut56

    ...und ohne kopfstützen auch sicherheitsmäßig sehr bedenklich....


    Velleicht nicht aber die orginal Sitze sind nich viel besser sicherheitsmäßig.





    People....lets stick to the topic ;)

  • Welche Sportsitze?

    It may not be the prettiest work but I made a frame from aluminium "tubes" wich I screwed straight on the original frames on the floor. Then I mounted the seats on top of that. I am sitting just a bit lower than originally now. Its perfect.







  • Osrav dämpfer einstellung

    Ok I managed to get a manual on english from OSRAV. Apperently one is not supposed to turn them untill they cant turn no more. One should only rotate them maximum 3 full turns, this means that they are then three times harder than they were originally from factory. It is also supposed to be done by experts only :( Here is the manual:


    "SETTING OF KSA SHOCK ABSORBERS
    TRACTION
    The regulation in order to improve sports settings or just to restore the shock absorber’s initial calibration after a certain mileage when it has lost a great part of the shock absorbing effect, can be performed by regulating directly the shock absorbers.
    The operation is extremely easy as long as performed by experts; only standard repair shop equipment is required.


    To vary TRACTION, proceed as follows:
    - Remove the shock absorber from the vehicle
    - Lock the shock absorber in a vice
    - If provided with a MacPherson type spring, remove all elements so that the stem is free
    - Push the shock absorber’s stem completely inside the shock absorber itself
    - Once the stem touches the end (do not release pressure), TURN IT GENTLY in either direction until if fits automatically in the foot valve.
    This is the reference point in order to begin regulation, to control the exact regulation angle.
    - At this point, rotate the stem clockwise with both hands to increase traction and keep the stem pressed downwards. Each complete turn of the stem increases traction by 100% (approx.)
    - Three complete turns can be performed for regulation, after which the shock absorber will lock. Do not reach this limit, also because the initial setting (already increased) is almost triple after three turns.
    - After regulation, pull the stem upwards to disconnect. Control setting in TRACTION and replace the shock absorber on the vehicle.
    In order to restore initial conditions, repeat the same operations by turning the stem anticlockwise with the same angle of rotation to decrease traction.
    Warning: the traction setting does not affect initial compression setting. If also compression needs to be varied, please refer to ‘Compression setting’ paragraph"



    Now...On my front shox I already turned mine to the end (wich I am not supposed to) so I will turn it back one turn. I hope this will be enough.


    On one of my rear shox I also turned couple of laps but I am not sure how many :? I dont know what to do now? I think I will have to turn them to the end and then turn back 2 laps. I hope this will be ok.

  • Osrav dämpfer einstellung

    I need help!



    I have on my front shox turned the piston several turns to hard untill it cant turn any more. Is this correct?


    Now how do i do it on the rear shox if I want medium?, Do I also first turn it on hard untill it cant go any more and then one turn back to soft?

  • Kamber und Toe in/out

    Zitat von tuotila

    In your case I'd stay at the original recomandations except for the camber at the front, which I'd change to 30' negative or 1° negative at maximum.


    Thomas


    Original recomandations under belasted oder leer?


    I would say the car is pretty "belasted" with my 93 kilos in it.
    ( I know..im a fatty :) )

  • Kamber und Toe in/out

    I also have to decide where I will be using my car the most. On the street it is not too good to have too much negative Camber and Toe as this will increase the wear of the wheel bearings and tyres but on the race track it is good to have more negative camber and toe for the handling.


    I would like to find a middle solution, a setting that is gentle on my tyres but still good enough for the handling. I think the setting i wrote before would be pretty god, but i dont really know :(


    The setting I have now is not very good as it is set to be as neutral on the tyres as possible and straight as possible, plus it looks stupid when the tyres go like this \ / :?


    Which setting would fit me better ?
    I have bielstein cup kit with the osrav shox (35mm). The car is not very low actually compared to others here. I have Yokohoma A539 175/50 -13 tyres on 6x13 wheels. My bushes are not new.


    Marco

  • Fahren mit Auto in Deutchland

    Zitat von Oliver Mitte

    Then you can join the Yountimer meeting this Year! :bash:


    ...and drive on the Nurburg ring and go to Hockenheim ring, and drive along the Rhein, and drive in the hills, and cruze around town with the coolest car :D and so on...

  • Kamber und Toe in/out

    Hmm...i think that manual is very difficult to read and understand :roll:


    According to it the Sturz/Kamber is Front : 1grade +- 30
    Rear: -2grade +- 30


    And the nachlauf/toe is Front: 3grade +- 15
    Rear: 0 grade


    This sounds to me very bad if you drive a lowered car with wider tyres!!!
    This would make it understeer alot and wear down the tyres fast.



    I think its better to have Sturz/Kamber Front: -1.5 grade
    Rear: -0.5 grade
    and nachlauf/toe both front and rear: 0 grade.


    This way one would have more tendensy to oversteer wich is better and the tyers will not wear out so fast.


    Or what do you guys think?